Shoe welting



- Mmh 26,1929. H. LYQN v1,706,6.24

sHoE WELTING Filed Haren s; 1928 /N l/E/v TOR.'

' erably wider than is requisite to provide regu-l Patented Mar. ze,1929.

unirse STATES HARRY LYO, OF HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T PERLEYE. BARBUR, TRADING AS BARBOUR WELTING COMPANY, OF BROCKTON,MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE WELTING.

Appuation med Marien a, 192s. serial No. 258,847.

Heret'ofore beaded welting for shoes hasy been produced. in both oneunit and two unitl types but in all of these there has been but a singlebead to be seated in the crease beneath the upper. The most eflicient,in providing cshape insurance, has been a one unit type having a solidbead formed., specifically, of the welt body material. Such a bead isfairly'A stiff and rigidrlhe object of the present invention 1s toprovide a one unit beaded welting with'a quality of bead, which whilehaving suiiieientA strength is also moderately flexible, enabling it toconform to inequalities of the crease and thus adequately fill thecrease throughout its length. Y

To the accomplishment of this obiect the invention comprises shoewelting having vthe novel feature hereinafter described and then nel ofthe insole 32. The thread tension mechf particularly pointed out in thelappended claims.

The preferred form of the invention is illustrated by the accompanyingdrawing, in which: p f

Figure 1 is a perspective view of one end of a welt strip showing alstep in forming a plural, flexible bead;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the'finished welting; and

Fig. 3 is a view of a portion of a shoe, in perspective, showing aplural bead welt sewed in position. l. 2

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing a weltstrip 10, considlar Goodyear welting of any gri/en dimensions, is slitlongitudinally from one edge and parallel to the `exposed face toproduce a relatively thin flap 12. If the material is leather' then theflap 12 is at the grain side of the strip so that when formed up into abead it will have the saine finish as the welt extension 14. The slit1t, which produces the flap 12, is carried toward the outer edge of thestrip only as far as the inner edge of the extension 14 whatever itswidth may be. A piece 18 is severed from beneath the flap leaving a weltbody 2O of the desired width.

`located between the two folds.

The flap 12 is formed into a plural bead as yby folding it twice throughthe material adj acent its attached end, the first fold 22preferably'being of less height than the second fold 2.4i, but the twofolds being 'so close as to contact eac-h other. r1`he free edge of thefiap 12 is secured, as by cement, to the inner margin of the welt body20. Cement may `also beused at each .folded area.. It is advantageous,although not essential, to stitch the fiap to the welt body by a drythread seam 26 (Fig. 2)

his insures permanence ofthe relationto each other of ther two folds. Afiller or core 28 of leather, or

rvany other suitable material, may be fed beneath the flap when formingthe first fold to give this fold, whenever required, adequate strengthand enough fbodylto retain the second fold in the desiredposition'behind .and above it. The seam 26 advantageously holds thecore-filled fold in place.

The plural beaded welting thus produced is handled by the welter,likeany other one unit beaded welding. The inseam is seated, at one side, inthe usual stitch-receiving groove 30 (Fig. 3) and, at the other side, inthe chananism draws the welt inward and seats the plural bead snugly inthe crease. Because of the flexibility and yielding quality of the beadstructure, welt beating and sewing the outsole 34 does nottend to drawthe bead outy of the crease. On the contrary the natural tendency of thefolds to expand and cushion causes the bead'to closelyl hug theupper 36throughout any inequality of the crease and thus add to the quality ofthe shoemaking and enhance the style t-rimofv the shoe. The bead issecurely locked in place by the inseam passing through the inner marginof the flap 12`and also by the dry thread seam 26. I

The piece 18 that is removed is not waste material.

slit longitudinally and parallel to one face of the welt bodyk andfolded at least twice through the material adjacent its secured end Thewidth of the strip 10.is so great, in order to obtain a flap-widthadequate toprovide two folds therein, that the to present a plural beadat the inner edge of the Welt extension.

2. Shoe Welting having an integral flange slit longitudinally andparallel to one face of the Welt body vand folded at least twice throughthe material adjacent its secured end to present a plural bead at theinner edge or the Welt extension, and a line ot' fastenings between saidfolds for securing the flap to tbe welt body.

3. Shoe Welting having a flange integral with the Welt body along alongitudinal line at the inner edge ol the welt extension, said -flangehaving its attached margin folded into a plural bead inside said lineand having its free margin fixed to the inner margin of the welt body.

d'. Shoe Welting having' a flange integral with the Welt body along alongitudinal line at the inner edge of the Welt extension rolde ed abouta core strip just inside said line and folded a second tirne on thefirst fold7 said folds lying against each other and forming a flexibledouble bead above the exposed face of the Welt body.

5. Beaded Welting having a double bead consisting olf two adjacent`lolds formed in flexible strip material at the exposed face of the Weltbod-y, one' of said folds being strengthened by an encased i'iller andthe other `fold being supported thereby.

6. Beaded Welting having a duplex longitudinal bead above the exposedface oit' the \\,jelt body one part being relatively stiliQ and theother part being relatively sollt and said two parte being in Contactand forming' t0- gether a cushioning bead to conform to the Welt creaseof a shoe.

HARRY LYON.

